Fault 1: Why can't the temperature rise during automatic temperature control?
1. The heater is burnt out (special note: if the resistance at both ends of the heating wire cannot be measured, it is called a burnt out heater. However, for automatic sterilization fermentation tanks, if the temperature protection is damaged and the sterilization program is incorrect, the heater will be turned on during automatic sterilization. After replacing the new heater, it will cause the heater to break down in three or five places)
2. Line connection error (usually easily discovered during debugging)
3. The circulation valve is not open (for beginners using fermentation tanks)
4. Solid state relay is broken
5. If the temperature is set too low or too high, it is generally required to adjust it to between 60 and 70 degrees.
6. Check valve stuck
7.220V heating power supply air switch tripped
8. The circulation pump is broken (the current is normal when the heater is working, but the temperature of the tank is increased)
9. The neutral wire of the 220V heating power supply is not properly connected
Solution steps:
1. Set the temperature to 50 degrees, press automatic
2. Open the cooling valve and start heating after 3 to 5 minutes; Judging that water level control is working normally
3. Measure the current of the red live wire on the solid-state relay, and if there is current, determine that the heater is functioning properly
4. Does the current size match the air switch and fuse? If it doesn't match, it needs to be replaced.
5. Set the temperature protection to 0 degrees. If the solid-state relay light goes out, it is judged that the solid-state relay is good
6. Adjust the temperature to 65 degrees Celsius
7. Automatic temperature control for more than 1 hour